The style of Milan Fashion Week, perhaps more than any other city, is defined by signs and labels

Max Mara, with all the elegant coats and same-coloured pieces in the crowd hinting at a seemingly endless appetite for sophisticated basics, two words that represent both the house and its latest collection. some of Gucci’s guests wore shiny suits that reflected the whimsy that former creative director Alessandro Michele brought to the house. (Mr Michele did not design the latest Gucci collection, but his influence can still be seen in some pieces, such as a shimmering silver jacket.)

But perhaps the most exciting show comparing looks from the crowd and on the runway is Diesel, which has found new relevance under designer Glenn Martens and is therefore attracting a new generation of fans.